Set deep in the heart of the African interior, inaccessible
by road and only 100km (60 miles) south of where Stanley uttered that
immortal greeting “Doctor Livingstone, I presume”, is a scene reminiscent
of an Indian Ocean island beach idyll.
Silky white coves hem in the azure waters of Lake
Tanganyika, overshadowed by a chain of wild, jungle-draped peaks towering
almost 2km above the shore: the remote and mysterious Mahale Mountains.
Mahale Mountains is home to some of Africa’s last
remaining wild chimpanzees: a population of roughly 800 (only 60 individuals
forming what is known as "M group"), habituated to human visitors
by a Japanese research project founded in the 1960s. Tracking the chimps of
Mahale is a magical experience. The guide's eyes pick out last night's
nests - shadowy clumps high in a gallery of trees crowding the sky. Scraps
of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung become valuable clues, leading deeper
into the forest. Butterflies flit in the dappled sunlight.
Then suddenly you are in their midst: preening each
other's glossy coats in concentrated huddles, squabbling noisily, or
bounding into the trees to swing effortlessly between the vines.
The area is also known as Nkungwe, after the park's
largest mountain, held sacred by the local Tongwe people, and at 2,460
metres (8,069 ft) the highest of the six prominent points that make up the
Mahale Range.
And while chimpanzees are the star attraction, the
slopes support a diverse forest fauna, including readily observed troops of
red Colobus, red-tailed and blue monkeys, and a kaleidoscopic array of colorful
forest birds.
You can trace the Tongwe people's ancient pilgrimage to
the mountain spirits, hiking through the montane rainforest belt – home to
an endemic race of Angola Colobus monkey - to high grassy ridges chequered
with alpine bamboo. Then bathe in the impossibly clear waters of the
world’s longest, second-deepest and least-polluted freshwater lake – harboring
an estimated 1,000 fish species - before returning as you came, by boat.
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About Mahale Mountains
National Park
Size: 1,613 sq km (623 sq miles).
Location: Western Tanzania, bordering Lake Tanganyika.
Getting there
Charter flight from Arusha, Dar or Kigoma.
Charter private or national park motorboat from
Kigoma, three to four hours.
Weekly steamer from Kigoma, seven hours, then hire a local fishing boat
or arrange with park HQ for pickup in park boat, another one or two
hours.
What to do
Chimp tracking (allow two days); hiking; camping
safaris; snorkeling; fish for your dinner.
When to go
Dry season (May-October) best for forest walks although
no problem in the light rains of October/November.
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Accommodation
Three seasonal luxury tented
camps.
Two small rest houses, large campsite.
NOTE
The same rules for chimpanzee viewing at Gombe Stream apply at Mahale
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