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The
closest national park to moshi town – northern Tanzania’s safari capital –
Arusha National Park is a multi-faceted jewel, often overlooked by
safarigoers, despite offering the opportunity to explore a beguiling
diversity of habitats within a few hours.
The
entrance gate leads into shadowy montane forest inhabited by inquisitive
blue monkeys and colourful turacos and trogons – the only place on the
northern safari circuit where the acrobatic black-and-white colobus monkey
is easily seen. In the midst of the forest stands the spectacular Ngurdoto
Crater, whose steep, rocky cliffs enclose a wide marshy floor dotted with
herds of buffalo and warthog.
Further
north, rolling grassy hills enclose the tranquil beauty of the Momela
Lakes, each one a different hue of green or blue. Their shallows sometimes
tinged pink with thousands of flamingos, the lakes support a rich selection
of resident and migrant waterfowl, and shaggy waterbucks display their
large lyre-shaped horns on the watery fringes. Giraffes glide across the
grassy hills, between grazing zebra herds, while pairs of wide-eyed dik-dik
dart into scrubby bush like overgrown hares on spindly legs.
Although
elephants are uncommon in Arusha National Park, and lions absent
altogether, leopards and spotted hyenas may be seen slinking around in the
early morning and late afternoon. It is also at dusk and dawn that the veil
of cloud on the eastern horizon is most likely to clear, revealing the
majestic snow-capped peaks of Kilimanjaro, only 50km (30 miles)
distant.
But it is Kilimanjaro’s unassuming cousin, Mount Meru - the fifth highest
in Africa at 4,566 metres (14,990 feet) – that dominates the park’s horizon.
Its peaks and eastern footslopes protected within the national park, Meru
offers unparalleled views of its famous neighbour, while also forming a
rewarding hiking destination in its own right.
Passing
first through wooded savannah where buffalos and giraffes are frequently
encountered, the ascent of Meru leads into forests aflame with red-hot
pokers and dripping with Spanish moss, before reaching high open heath
spiked with giant lobelias. Everlasting flowers cling to the alpine desert,
as delicately-hoofed klipspringers mark the hike’s progress. Astride the
craggy summit, Kilimanjaro stands unveiled, blushing in the sunrise.
When
to go
To climb Mt Meru, June-February
although it may rain in November.
Best views of Kilimanjaro December-February.
Accommodation
Two lodges, two rest houses,
camp sites, two mountain huts inside the park; more lodges at Usa River
outside the park and many hotels and hostels in moshi town.
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