The Kilimanjaro Experience - an excerpt from Kilimanjaro Diaries - Africa Natural Tours ( africanaturaltours.com )
The Kilimanjaro Experience - an excerpt from Kilimanjaro Diaries:
Africa Natural Tours (For Kilimanjaro, Serengeti and
Zanzibar) Tanzania safari company in Moshi
Specialized
in: Wildlife safaris, Mountain climbing,
Cultural tourism and Beach holidays in East Africa
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Email: info@africanaturaltours.com
Website: www.africanaturaltours.com
Eva
is the author of Kilimanjaro Diaries, who through her book, has vividly
described what a Kilimanjaro climbing experience feels like. After speaking to
her about her experience, we realized the best way to understand what awaits
you on Kilimanjaro, is to vicariously get a glimpse of what a day in the life
of a Kilimanjaro trekker is like. This extract from her book describes the end
of Day One, which Eva feels gives a good glimpse of the various aspects of
climbing Kill - the exhaustion, the gallows' humor, and the stunning
beauty.
An extract from the Kilimanjaro
Diaries
After
almost seven hours of walking we glimpse the camp not far in front of us. I
admit that I’m relieved to be here. Throughout the afternoon the path has been
so steep that it mostly consisted of huge steps, cut into the slope and reinforced
with wooden planks so that it felt like we were climbing up a giant and endless
staircase. Each upward stride was so strenuous that we walked pole pole on
our own accord and without any admonishments by the guides. No one seemed to
have the urge to move any faster, not even the three boys. The reward for our
hard work is that we have conquered an astonishing 1,200 meters of elevation in
just one day, going from the park gate at 1,800 m above sea level – an
elevation already a bit higher than Johannesburg at 1,600 m – all the way to
Machame Hut at 3,000 m.
And
here, in front of the hut, we are greeted with a welcome sight: Our tents are
already waiting for us, ready to be occupied. Except now a slight
organizational snag becomes apparent, in that we do not seem to have enough
tents among us. Two in our group have signed up for single tents, and yet there
are only five tents available for ten people. The obvious solution is to have
the two people in single tents – Monia and Martin – team up to share a tent,
and Mike immediately appropriates this as his new mission. He’s done a lot of
camping in the bush, and he seems to be a fan of sharing tents with virtual
strangers.
“Come
on, look at Martin here,” he says to Monia with a twinkle in his eye. “Such a
handsome lad! It’ll be fun!”
And
on he goes, taking turns to describe each of them in more and more glowing
terms as a potential tent mate for the other. Martin, utterly exhausted, is too
weak to protest, but Monia becomes more horrified with every new embellishment
and is very grateful when Goddy presents an alternate solution. It’s actually a
bit strange: one moment the tent was missing, and the next it seems to have
magically reappeared. This leaves Mike rather disappointed. I have the feeling
he enjoys provoking Monia with his lewd jokes, and she always seems to oblige,
wandering into his trap like a lamb led to slaughter.
After
we’ve moved into our tents and unpacked our few belongings, we are asked to
file into Machame Hut to sign our names and professions into the book again – a
procedure we are to repeat every night of our climb. After that we are treated
to a wonderful dinner in our very own mess tent, overlooking the sea of clouds
below. Incredibly, we have already left the rainforest behind us and are camped
under the branches of a few smaller trees.
A
meal has never tasted better to me, even though our tableware was definitely
never destined for any bride’s trousseau. Also, one of the folding chairs is
dangerously wobbly, and a nightly game of musical chairs ensues as everyone
clamors to avoid it. But the food is good, and plentiful: a big pot of soup,
followed by some chicken with potatoes or rice, and a dessert. And always
popcorn, nuts, tea, and coffee to our hearts’ content.
If
the food is good, the company is even better. We have a grand old time
recounting the day’s happenings and peppering Goddy with questions of things to
come. We reflect on the fact that we’ve hiked through gloomy rainforest all
day, barely ever catching a glimpse of the sun, surrounded by those eerie trees
and gigantic ferns, and how unusual it is that we didn’t get rained on once.
Even the road we hiked on first, and later the narrow path, were bone dry. I
for one thank our good fortune, as I’m quite happy to never find out if the
ponchos I bought are indeed waterproof. Maybe picking early September, one of
the dry seasons on the mountain, was in fact a good move.
The
other good news is, thanks to a combination of pure luck, the layering of socks
(thin ones for underneath, and the thick cushy ones for my second layer), and
diligently having worn my boots for the last three months (although most often
while sitting at my computer), I have no blisters whatsoever.
Bedtime
comes early when you’re on the mountain. Mainly because there is only so long
you can linger in a mess tent on slanting chairs (and without alcohol), and
also because the warmth of your sleeping bag is beckoning. Max and I try to get
comfortable in the confines of our tent, and I ask him about his day. “Good,” he
says cheerfully, turns over, and is sound asleep before I can say anything
else. I’m glad that he seems happy. I talked him into this hike, after all, and
there was a possibility that he wouldn’t like it and – God forbid – announce
that he’s turning around after a day. On the other hand, I can already tell
that I will have to pull each and every word out of him if I want to find out
more about what is going through his head while we live through our adventure.
Since
it is only 8:00 PM I don my headlamp and try to read a bit. I brought
a book because a friend and previous hiker recommended one to ward off
sleeplessness. But it doesn’t take long for my arms to get too cold. I try
reading inside my sleeping bag, but that doesn’t work either,
because there isn’t enough space to extend my arms to the distance needed for
people my age, and no one has thought to put “(1) Reading glasses” on
the packing list. After a while I give up, turn off the lamp, and close my
eyes.
The
downside of turning off your headlamp so early is that this makes for a very
long night. Just as I feared, I wake up in the middle of the night and can’t go
back to sleep. What’s more, I feel the first faint stirrings in my bladder. I
crawl out of the tent and look around to locate the toilet tent, which I’ve
privately christened Tee-Tee the Toilet Tent. What, do you think,
are the chances Tee-Tee will be occupied?
Very
high, it turns out. It’s a veritable zoo out there in front of our green toilet
tent where several group members have lined up and are patiently waiting their
turn. I shiver from the cold and try to pass the time by staring up the
mountain, not wanting to engage in conversation because all I really want to do
is snuggle back into my sleeping bag and go to sleep.
And
then I’m glad I got up, even if it means I had to unzip and re-zip 15 closures
in the process. Because the sight is incredible: Kibo – the Kili peak we’re
trying to scale, shrouded in clouds and hidden from view all day long – is
suddenly towering above us in all its majestic beauty. I can see its
snow-covered ridges far above under a moonlit sky, and it looks both foreboding
and magnificent. I can also make out tiny lights reflecting off the snow
somewhere way up there. At first this puzzles me, but then reality hits me with
full force: those lights are other hikers summiting right now in a long line of
headlamps.
By
the grace of God, that will be us in five days.
I
hope you enjoyed that excerpt contributed by Eva from her book. If you are
looking to read the entire book, it's available on Amazon and in case
you're planning a Kilimanjaro climb, you will find a lot of article
resources here and you can get the current prices offered by
different operators here. If you have climbed Kilimanjaro or have
checked off a bucket list adventure, our readers would be more than happy for
you to share your experience!
For
more information visit www.africanaturaltours.com
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