Set deep in the heart of the African interior,
inaccessible by road and only 100km (60 miles) south of where Stanley
uttered that immortal greeting “Doctor Livingstone, I presume”, is a scene
reminiscent of an Indian Ocean island beach idyll. Silky white coves hem in
the azure waters of Lake Tanganyika, overshadowed by a chain of wild,
jungle-draped peaks towering almost 2km above the shore: the remote and
mysterious Mahale Mountains. Mahale Mountains is home to some of Africa’s
last remaining wild chimpanzees: a population of roughly 800 (only 60
individuals forming what is known as "M group"), habituated to
human visitors by a Japanese research project founded in the 1960s.
Tracking the chimps of Mahale is a magical experience. The guide's eyes
pick out last night's nests - shadowy clumps high in a gallery of trees
crowding the sky. Scraps of half-eaten fruit and fresh dung become valuable
clues, leading deeper into the forest. Butterflies flit in the dappled
sunlight. Then suddenly you are in their midst: preening each other's
glossy coats in concentrated huddles, squabbling noisily, or bounding into
the trees to swing effortlessly between the vines. The area is also known
as Nkungwe, after the park's largest mountain, held sacred by the local
Tongwe people, and at 2,460 meters (8,069 ft) the highest of the six
prominent points that make up the Mahale Range. And while chimpanzees are
the star attraction, the slopes support a diverse forest fauna, including
readily observed troops of red Colobus, red-tailed and blue monkeys, and a
kaleidoscopic array of colorful forest birds. You can trace the Tongwe
people's ancient pilgrimage to the mountain spirits, hiking through the
montane rainforest belt – home to an endemic race of Angola Colobus monkey
- to high grassy ridges chequered with alpine bamboo. Then bathe in the
impossibly clear waters of the world’s longest, second-deepest and
least-polluted freshwater lake – harboring an estimated 1,000 fish species
- before returning as you came, by boat.
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About Mahale Mountains National Park
Size: 1,613 sq km (623 sq miles).
Location: Western Tanzania, bordering Lake Tanganyika.
Getting there
Charter flight from Arusha, Dar or Kigoma.
Charter private or national park motorboat from Kigoma, three to four
hours.
Weekly steamer from Kigoma, seven hours, then hire a local fishing boat
or arrange with park HQ for pickup in park boat, another one or two
hours.
What to do
Chimp
tracking (allow two days); hiking; camping safaris; snorkeling; fish for
your dinner.
When to go
Dry season (May-October) best for forest walks although no problem in the
light rains of October/November.
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Accommodation
Three seasonal luxury tented
camps.
Two small rest houses, large campsite.
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